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On Top of the World: Climbing Ben Lomond in Queenstown

28 November 2011

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On Top of the World: Climbing Ben Lomond in Queenstown

When I first decided to come backpacking in New Zealand, I never expected to find a temporary home in the Land of the Long White Cloud. New Zealand seemingly has this effect on many – especially my current home of Queenstown. This bustling little resort town tucked into the Southern Alps seems to be home to more Irish, British, Canadians and Aussies than it does Kiwis.

Why?

Many visitors to Queenstown would quickly seem to understand why so many backpackers and those on working holidays in New Zealand seem to never leave. Queenstown is hands down one of the most beautiful places in New Zealand – which is without a doubt one of the most beautiful places in the world.

The stunning views and jaw dropping vistas that surround Queenstown are surely part of the draw, but it’s only those that really settle down in QT that get it. Yes, the views that surround Queenstown – the sunsets across Lake Wakatipu, the snow capped Remarkables Mountain Range, the tempting summits of Cecil and Walter Peak – those views are absolutely part of the appeal.

Yet for me – and I believe many others – it’s both what lies beyond those views and what those views open up that are the real draw to living here in this far away corner of the world.

It’s the lifestyle.

Ben Lomond Saddle

Ben Lomond Saddle

It’s the evening runs, the weekend missions into the backcountry, the hikes, the climbs, the casual community races, the epic mountain bike adventures and the overall outdoor focused, adventure influenced and healthy lifestyle that become an influential part of life in Queenstown. It’s that lifestyle that draws so many in and holds them here for much longer than they anticipated.

To get a taste of this lifestyle, you need not look any further than a climb up Ben Lomond just outside Queenstown. This 1,748 metre summit is literally accessed directly from town.

A well graded trail will lead you to a summit that feels miles into the backcountry in about three hours.

Climbing Ben Lomond in Queenstown

Approaching Ben Lomond

Approaching Ben Lomond

This view comes just after passing the Skyline complex at the top of the gondola. If you’re keen to save about an hours worth of hiking through the forest, you can take the Skyline Gondola up through the Ben Lomond Forest for about $15.

Cecil and Walter Peaks

Cecil and Walter Peaks

After about an hour views of Lake Wakatipu and Cecil and Walter Peak will open up behind you.

Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu

Looking south towards the Remarkables.

Snowy Ben Lomond Summit

Snowy Ben Lomond Summit

The hike to Ben Lomond’s summit should not be tackled during the winter unless you’re prepared for ice, snow and alpine climbing.

Ben Lomond Summit

Ben Lomond Summit

These photos are somewhat deceiving as the ridgeline was essentially snowless all the way to the summit.

Lake Wakatipu from Above

Lake Wakatipu from Above

 Higher…

Lake Wakatipu and The Remarks

Lake Wakatipu and The Remarks

…and higher.

Ben Lomond Saddle

Ben Lomond Saddle

After about two hours of hiking you’ll reach the Ben Lomond Saddle with views opening up into Skippers and Shotover Canyons. From here you can carry on to the summit in about an hour or drop down through alpine tussock into farmland and onto the Moonlight Track which will lead you to Arthurs Point. It’s a solid three hours to Arthurs Point and from here you’ll have to hitch back to Queenstown unless you’ve arranged transport.

Nearing the Summit

Nearing the Summit

The photo above shows the ridgeline you follow to the summit.

Snow Capped Mountains

Snow Capped Mountains

Looking north towards Mount Earnslaw…

Moke Lake and Beyond

Moke Lake and Beyond

View of Moke Lake and the mountains beyond…

View from Ben Lomond Summit

View from Ben Lomond Summit

Summit views – 1,400 metres above Lake Wakatipu.

Summit View

Summit View

Expect a return trip from Queenstown to take no less than five hours.

Don’t rush it – take your time, bring a packed lunch and take in the exceptional views from what seems to be the top of the world.

Have you climbed Ben Lomond? Can you suggest any other hikes around Queenstown? Let us know in the comments section below.

Did you enjoy these photos? Then check out…

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7 Must-Do Experiences for an Alternative Visit to Athens

31 October 2011

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7 Must-Do Experiences for an Alternative Visit to Athens

This is a guest post by Rebecca Hall.

I have suffered from wanderlust ever since a teenager and at the tender age of 19, took myself off to Australia for a year. Various job roles in my 20s at LHR airport enabled me to satisfy my wanderlust, but it’s only in my 30s that I’ve started to look closer to home (the UK) and discover Europe.

I’m settled (for now), in the beautiful country of Greece.

Athens, as of late, thanks to the atrocious international reportage, conjures up images of rioting pensioners alongside hooded youths, baton wielding fascist policemen and you can almost smell the teargas and hear the cries of the people with raised fists. Yes, riots do occur – the Greeks are, luckily, not a nation to take things lightly and moan about things, yet do nothing about them.

However there is more to this capital city than what is portrayed of late.

Sunset on Naxos

Sunset on Naxos

Picture, if you will: old Greek men, sitting outside various ‘cafénios’ in their neighbourhood discussing politics, twiddling their worry beads and looking at the young piece of ass that’s walking by (strangely, it’s never disgusting and never feels threatening). Hear the cries of the weekly neighbourhood farmer’s street market (bound to be one near your hostel) and be greeted in Greek by the stall holders – “Kali mera!” Smell the freshly ground Greek coffee from the cafés and know that you can comfortably sit there, nursing just one coffee for hours and not be asked to purchase another one or move on.

Eat Gyros, the incredibly healthy Greek fast food – chicken or pork and chips (fried in olive oil) wrapped in a pitta with salad and tzatziki (that yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip). If you’re incredibly lucky, you might even be spat on by an old Greek lady. Yes, this happened to me in my first week in Greece – I picked up an old lady’s shopping she had dropped on the floor. She thanked me, looked at me then promptly spat at me three times (well, on the floor in front of me to be fair). It’s a compliment to any woman – it means you are considered a beautiful person and they are warding away the ‘Evil Eye’ – lest someone become jealous of you and place a curse on you.

Sit outside in the summer and watch a movie with the backdrop of the Acropolis – this turns an average cinema trip into something of an experience.

And so, with an obvious passion for “all things Greek,” here are seven tips for your experience traveling in Athens.

1) Alternative tour around Athens

Exarchia graffiti (translation - The Revolution is Coming)

Exarchia graffiti (translation - The Revolution is Coming)

Don’t just come to Athens, see the Acropolis, changing of the guard then head to an island. Why not take yourself off to Exarchia, traditionally known as the ‘anarchist’ area of Athens. Full of great graffiti and very trendy bars and cafés, Exarchia is THE place to be.

Nearest metro: Omonia (red or green line) – about a 10 minute walk down the side alleys.

2) Athens Flea Market

Every Sunday in Monestiraki, the outdoor flea market opens up. Wander around and browse at the weird paraphernalia: anything from army gear, old dial telephones to coins, books and vintage clothing.

Nearest metro: Monesteraki (green line).

3) Head to Piraeus port, take the next ferry out of there

Sunset - Naxos Harbour

Sunset - Naxos Harbour

Don’t plan it – do as I do…rock up, take the next ferry and see where you end up. I have ended up on: Poros, Naxos, Paros and Aegina. Poros and Aegina are nearer to Athens and are served by high speed catamarans, therefore more expensive. But it is possible to get a ‘slow boat’ there.

Naxos & Paros are about 5 hours away by normal ferry. At both beautiful islands, guesthouse owners meet you off the ferry and bargain away. In the high season of August in Naxos I managed to bag a room for 30 Euros a night. Between two of us (15E each), that’s pretty good.

4) Visit The Art Foundation .. and have a beer

Located behind a small wooden door down another side street in Monestiraki, The Art Foundation bar is situated in the garden of an old, run down art deco building. Open till very late, it’s popular with the arty crowds. Enjoy a drink whilst browsing the strange exhibits in the upstairs rooms.

Nearest metro: Monesteraki (green line).

5) Epidaurus Ancient Theatre

Epidaurus Ancient Theatre

Epidaurus Ancient Theatre

Located in the Peloponnese, approximately 2 hours by coach from Athens, Epidaurus stages theatrical performances every year in the summer in an ancient amphitheatre. In July 2011 I was lucky enough to watch Kevin Spacey perform in “Richard III” as part of the Athens Festival – for 20E! The acoustics are spectacular so regardless of where you sit, you can hear every word uttered.

Take a coach from Athens – on performance days’ special coaches run for only 20 Euros. And if going on a performance day, please take a cushion!

6) Watch a movie in the summer, outdoors

Athenians are avid cinema goers. In the summer, the outdoor cinemas throw open their doors (or roofs) and a whole new experience in cinema begins. My favourite is Cine Paris – located near the Acropolis. You can have your own view of the Parthenon whilst you watch the latest movie – or sometimes even an old black and white Hepburn flick.

Nearest metro: Acropolis (Red line)

7) And one further afield – the Monasteries of Meteora

Monastry in Meteora

Monastry in Meteora

A World Heritage site (and used many years ago in the filming of a Sean Connery “James Bond” movie), Meteora is located in Central Greece. Translating as “suspended in the air” or “in the heavens above,” here you will find the 6 monasteries built from the 14th Century onwards atop the high rock formations.

Nearest station: Kalampaka – take the train from Larissa Station in Athens, approximately 4 hours journey time.

Yes, Greece is suffering big time at the moment – but she has so much to offer a person, so long as you are willing to open yourself up to her strange customs and are willing to integrate. Don’t just come here and be a backpacker – really try to get into the community and appreciate all this country has to offer. Don’t always believe all you hear on the news.

Have you traveled to Athens? Leave any tips in the comments section below.

About the Author: I’m a 30 something English Language teacher, currently in Greece. I’ve travelled to, lived and taught in Sri Lanka, Egypt and even helped Eastern European crew with their English whilst on a Container ship travelling across the Atlantic. All experiences have helped shape who I am today. Follow my journey and send me your Athens questions via my blog Leavingcairo.Blogspot.com.

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15 Tips for Your First Experience Backpacking in Australia

13 October 2011

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15 Tips for Your First Experience Backpacking in Australia

If you’re considering a working holiday in Australia or even an extended backpacking trip, you’re bound to have heaps of things on your mind. Contributing author Lauren Fritsky is based in beautiful Sydney and nails out 15 tips to help make your first experience backpacking in Australia stress-free.

Word: Wreck.

Definition: Me when I landed in Australia on Jan. 25., 2010.

Cathay Pacific Airways deposited me in Kingsford Smith International Airport with no apartment lined up, the bare minimum in savings and two suitcases stuffed with my life. It was hot, I’d lost the address to my hotel and I couldn’t get the SIM card in my prepaid phone to work.

I’m happy to report my state of affairs has improved since then. Still, knowing a few things would’ve helped me acclimate to Aussie life a bit easier.

Here’s how you can basically do a better job than I did traveling, living or backpacking in Australia.

1. Bring extra money

Sydney, Australia

Sydney, Australia

Immigration recommends work and holidaymakers bring AUD$5,000. This isn’t enough. Sydney and Melbourne are some of the most expensive cities in the world. Plus, costs for items like produce have shot up since the floods earlier this year.

2. Sort out your banking

Consider using a fee-free credit card for some purchases. If you can’t be trusted with plastic, transfer as much money as possible to an Australian bank account to avoid fees of $50 or more for each transfer and debit and ATM withdrawal surcharges from both countries.

3. Use hostel memberships

Hostelling International memberships cost $25 a year and shave a few dollars off your hostel stay each night.

4. Wear sunscreen

Bondi Beach

Bondi Beach

There’s a reason an Australian wrote the “Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen)” song in the 90s. I got sunburned so bad when I got here, I had a mark on my thigh for almost a month. Did I mention I’m olive-skinned and usually tan?

5. Visit the GP

The out-of-pocket cost for a GP visit is around $60 in Sydney — about $150 less than going to a specialist first. Check out this post for more on travelers’ health insurance in Australia.

6. Call home on the computer

You can call the States and Canada from Australia for free on Google phone through 2011. FREE!

7. Find cheap Internet

I bought a $99 USB modem only to pay $60-plus a month for spotty Internet. I now pay half that for unlimited wireless at my apartment. If you’re hopping about, skip the hostel Internet and head to libraries or McDonald’s to get it for free.

8. Skip the cabs

You can get one-way bus fare for the starting rate of a cab in Sydney. It’s then $2 per kilometer plus a 20-percent surcharge if traveling after 10 p.m. Save your money.

9. Drive

Traveling by Campervan in Australia

Traveling by Campervan in Australia

Or have someone drive for you. You can explore the many dirt paths, colorful landscapes and coastal areas a lot better if you’re in a two-passenger car instead of a 25-person tour bus.

10. Talk to locals

Chat with old folks, the people born and raised in Oz, the immigrants who came there for a better life. Their stories and observations will open your eyes.

12. Rock the suburbs

“Suburb” doesn’t mean the same thing in Australia as it does elsewhere. Many Oz suburbs are diverse and alive with a vibrant arts scene and café culture. In fact, you might prefer staying in a suburb over a CBD — rent is heaps cheaper.

13. Embrace “island time”

Central Coast Outside Sydney

Central Coast Outside Sydney

Emails go unanswered for weeks, buses rock up 30 minutes late with no explanation and service in restaurants is often non-existent. Just repeat “no worries” to yourself.

14. Know how to change your visa

I thought I could get another year out of my work and holiday visa by picking fruit. It turns out Americans aren’t eligible, though Canadians and many European citizens are. While one immigration lawyer said I couldn’t get on my American partner’s work visa, it turns out I could (and did). Make sure you research and talk to the right people if you want to stay longer.

14. Find the less-hyped spots

Myall Lakes National Park

Myall Lakes National Park

Myall Lakes, the Central Coast, Royal National Park and Ku-ring-gai Chase are all beautiful places as worth seeing as Great Ocean Road and the Great Barrier Reef.

15. Say things right

Know to say a “flat white with two sugars” when ordering coffee. Call peppers “capsicum,” cheddar cheese “Tasty” and shrimp “prawns.” It’s the Aussie way.

Have you traveled to Australia? Do any of these tips ring true to you? Add your tips for backpacking in Australia to the comments section below.

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100 Mile Mountain Bike Race on New Zealand’s South Island

25 September 2011

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100 Mile Mountain Bike Race on New Zealand’s South Island

Twelve months ago, I hopped on a borrowed bike with essentially zero training and rode in the Rail Trail Classic 100 – a 100 mile (150 km) bike race across Central Otago on New Zealand’s South Island.

Most cycle tourists in New Zealand tackle the Otago Rail Trail over the course of three or four days. While the cycling adds to the enjoyment, the main draw of a trip on the Rail Trail involves numerous mid-ride coffees, afternoon pints and evening pub meals. The surrounding scenery is stunning, but as the trail originally was the path of a train track, the gradient is very gradual and the riding isn’t necessarily exciting.

Snow Covered Otago Rail Trail

Snow Covered Otago Rail Trail

Over the past year I’ve clocked hundreds of miles on my mountain bike on trails throughout New Zealand and decided I would again set off to tackle the RTC100. I was determined to prove that not only could I complete this marathon of bike races, but I hoped to significantly improve my time.

New Zealand’s Spring weather is well known for throwing four seasons your way over the course of a day. The past week has been highlighted by stunningly warm Spring days, but alas before today’s ride Mother Nature sent a Spring Storm our way.

The result?

My 100 mile journey was complimented by a sloppy, muddy and unrelenting track. Much of the day was spent tackling snow covered countryside. When the snow cleared, a brutal headwind that almost stopped me in my tracks made for a tortuous final 40 kms.

In some bizarre way, I enjoyed it. I was glad to improve my time by just over an hour and a half, but equally thrilled to simply complete this epic race. The sense of accomplishment you feel after completing such a massive challenge is impossible to put into words.

Check out this video from the ride…

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Another Weekend in Paradise … Snowboarding in Queenstown

19 July 2011

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Another Weekend in Paradise … Snowboarding in Queenstown

Most months throughout the year, the highlight of a trip to Queenstown is centered around hiking Great Walks like the Routeburn track, jumping off bridges, out of planes or barreling down rivers in New Zealand-invented jet boats.

Come winter when the White Gold arrives, Queenstown goes from being a bustling summer resort to an alpine ski village.

Kind of.

See, the thing with Queenstown – as compared with most Northern Hemisphere ski towns – is that it very, very rarely snows in town.

Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, New Zealand

The village sits on the shores of Lake Wakatipu at just about 340 meters above sea level. All but two or three times throughout the winter, this isn’t high enough for precipitation to fall as snow.

Skiing & Snowboarding in New Zealand…

The New Zealand skiing and snowboarding experience is characterized by trips from town ‘up the hill’ to the ski fields. Forget ski-in ski-out like you’d find in a Colorado mountain town. At the very best, a trip to one of the ski fields near Queenstown will take you 30 minutes – this is assuming:

  • A) You have your own transportation and aren’t relying on NZSki’s unreliable bus services
  • B) It isn’t snowing as this often results in the ski field access road becoming a big traffic jam (as NZSki bus drivers very often can’t drive in the snow), and
  • C) You don’t stop along the way to take in the epic views

While the 30 minute trip to the mountain is tough to get used at first, the trip up from Queenstown to one of the ski fields is a pretty epic experience. Twisting mountain roads, steep drop-offs and stunning views back over Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown are on offer all the way up to The Remarkables or Coronet Peak. And surprisingly … the snowboarding is pretty bloody good.

Later on in the winter, I’ll put together a post with some practical tips for your experience snowboarding on New Zealand’s South Island – for the time being, enjoy these photos from The Remarkables and Coronoet Peak just outside of beautiful Queenstown.

Sunrise at Coronet Peak

Sun Rising Over the Wakatipu Basin

Sun Rising Over the Wakatipu Basin

This photo was taken early one morning as the sun was just rising at Coronet Peak. The clouds cleared to reveal a Wakatipu Basin completely covered in snow – a once or twice a year event in Queenstown.

The Remarkables

The Remarkables

The Remarkables

After a solid week of snow, a high pressure system rolled across the South Island and we’ve been granted bluebird clear days.

Above the Clouds

Above the Clouds

When the clouds do roll in, you’re very very often above them – a surreal experience. Driving up The Remarks recently, it looked as if it was going to be a cloudy day – until we broke through the clouds and were greeted with clear blue skies.

Fresh Powder

Fresh Powder

On Top of the World…

On Top of the World...

On Top of the World...

Absolute Paradise

This might possibly be the most spectacular view I’ve seen anywhere in New Zealand … or for that matter the world.

After riding the Shadow Basin chair at The Remarkables ski field, a thirty minute hike up to the ridgeline of The Remarkables moutain range leaves you with this this view.

On the right day, clear blue skies, some low clouds over Lake Wakatipu and snow capped mountains remind you that New Zealand might possibly be the most beautiful place in the world.

Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu

Have you been skiing or snowboarding in Queenstown? Leave your experiences in the comments section below.

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Take a Hike: Top Spots for Sydney Walks

4 July 2011

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Take a Hike: Top Spots for Sydney Walks

Last week I posted a photos of one of my favorite day hikes near Queenstown New Zealand. Hiking is a fantastic way to get a feel for wherever it is you’ve traveled to – plus, it’s budget friendly; as they say, views are nearly always free. Today, contributing writer and Australia based Lauren Fritsky (@laurenfritsky) of The Life that Broke takes us on some of her favorite hikes across the ditch in Sydney.

One of the first things I did when I got to Sydney 18 months ago was the Bondi to Coogee walk.

Guidebooks highlight the activity and locals recommend it. I expected just a nice stroll along the water. I got instead endless ocean views punctuated by carved cliffs, greenery and golden shores all along the 5km walk. I didn’t even care that the temperature read 30 Celsius that afternoon.

Since that mid-summer day, I’ve taken heaps more hikes in and around Sydney. From bush to beach, beginner to advanced, short to long, there’s a hike for everyone here.

Spit Bridge to Manly Scenic Walk

Creative Commons: daivinandleah

Creative Commons: daivinandleah

Next to the Bondi to Coogee walk, Spit to Manly ranks among the most well-known and recommended hikes around Sydney.

It’s 9km total, but you can break it down into more digestible bits if it’s too hot, too hard or you’re too hung-over.

Insects and reptiles, multi-colored flowers and views of Sydney’s Middle Harbour greet you along the way. Stop for a snorkel in the bay on your way to Manly Wharf and you might see a little penguin in addition to the array of fish, shells and other sea life.

Manly to Freshwater Beach

Manly to Freshwater Beach Walk

Creative Commons: nigelhowe

At the end of Manly Beach, you can explore an area along the shore with large rocks, small ponds, black crabs and other critters. You get there by walking up the stairs in the back corner of the pools, then up the cliffs overlooking the beach (not the pedestrian walkway to Freshwater).

Go in the late afternoon to catch the first signs of a cotton-candy-colored sunset above the crashing waves.

There are a few larger rocks you’ll have to scale, and it’s rarely a smooth, straight path, so don’t wear thongs or slippery shoes.

Kung-ring-gai Chase National Park

Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Hikes

Creative Commons: brightsea

You can choose from hikes of varying levels of difficulty at this historical parkland an hour north of Sydney. One of the more challenging ones, the 5.4km Resolute Loop, takes you to Resolute Beach, an isolated strip of shore where you can take a dip in the turquoise water with a few other bathers.

You can also see Aboriginal rock formations along the level portion of the path before the descent to the beach.

Royal National Park

Royal National Park

Creative Commons: vinni123

This is another location with a variety of hikes, but one of the more scenic and challenging is the climb up into the headlands if you do the Mowlee Ridge to Garie Beach hike in reverse.

You’ll climb up a cliff about 356 meters, but you’ll be rewarded with wide ocean views once you reach the top.

The full 6.7km path will lead you to rock edges covered in heath.

Wagstaff to Box Head

Wagstaff to Box Head

Wagstaff to Box Head

Wilderness walk meets shore stroll as you hike up this hilly 5km track. After taking the Palm Beach ferry to Wagstaff, you’ll climb a hill, then walk a flat ridge through to the bush to some cliffs. You’ll get good views of the sea, the Hawkesbury River and Lion Island from the Box Head ridge. You can also walk down to the bayside beach called Lobster or Tallow Beach on the ocean side.

The poisonous brown snake likes to hang out in this bush, so watch your step.

This list by no means covers all the hiking possibilities in the Sydney area, but it can provide a guide to the new walker.

Have you traveled to Sydney? What are your favorite hikes?

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Epic Queenstown New Zealand Day Trip: Hiking Mount Alfred

23 June 2011

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Epic Queenstown New Zealand Day Trip: Hiking Mount Alfred

Most travelers who come to Queenstown stop after taking in the staples of this epic little resort town on New Zealand’s South Island.

Bungy jumping. Check. Jetboating. Check. Skydiving. Check.

It seems everything Queenstown has to offer will simultaneously tempt fate, defy gravity, and break the bank.

While these activities (and more) are on offer in the Adventure Capital of the World, the shining light in Queenstown is the huge variety of hiking, biking and simply stunning scenery that sits literally on little Queenie’s doorstep. While you’ll get a taste of what this area of the world has to offer when you hop on the cramped bus to Milford Sound (and you should), to really understand Queenstowns natural beauty, you’ve got to check out some of the exceptional nearby hikes (and bike rides) which are begging to be explored.

Experiencing the beauty of the South Island on your own will blow most guided tours out of the water.

The Remarkables

The Remarkables

In the past six months, I’ve developed a passion for taking in and really experiencing everything the Southern Lakes of New Zealand has to offer.

It really is the New Zealand way.

There are a couple of fantastic hikes which leave from Queenstowns central Shotover Street. Head up through the Ben Lomond forest, past the AJ Hackett Ledge Bungy site, and head back to towering Ben Lomond. For something less strenuous, check out the hike up to the Queenstown Hill; both afford priceless views of Lake Wakatipu, Cecil Peak and the aptly named Remarkables.

The opportunities for exploration are opened wider if you have your own transportation. If you’ll be in Aotearoa for awhile, consider buying a campervan when you arrive; otherwise, one of the best ways to travel around New Zealand is with your own transportation so hire a car. When you get to Queenstown, head down towards Glenorchy and climb Mount Alfred.

Climbing Mount Alfred

Mount Alfred New Zealand

Creative Commons: Tobybear

This 1,375 metre peak juts out between the Dart and Rees River valleys and simply begs to be climbed. Natureshop.co.nz recently offered me some hiking gear to sample and I tackled Mount Alfred for the second time with my flatmate Jo, a pair of Keen hiking boots, and a Merino Icebreaker midlayer. Excellent gear for what might just be one of the best day hikes in the greater Queenstown area.

The hike begins from the western side of Mount Alfred in the Dart River valley; follow signposts to the start of the Routeburn Track and you’ll see the carpark where the track begins about 20 kms from quaint Glenorchy.

Mount Alfred Track Start

Mount Alfred Track Start

As usual, DOC (the Department of Conservation) overshoots the realistic time it would take for someone of a reasonable fitness to hike the track; while my flatmate and I managed to do the hike in under four hours, this included a fair bit of running on the decent. Basic hiking should have you to Alfred’s nearly 1,400 metre summit and back in a cool 5 – 6 hours.

This hike is unique to many in New Zealand in that it contains a fantastic mix of hiking through the dense bush, with some scrambling near the top along with panoramic views from the summit.

Even those with a minor affliction to vertigo should be able to handle the scrambling that is a welcomed break-up to the half day adventure.

The first two hours is spent climbing through ancient, moss covered, silver beech forest which is prevalent throughout this area of New Zealand. New Zealand’s largest remaining indigenous forest will keep you company as you climb 600 or 700 metres above the valley on a well defined trail.

Climbing Through the Beech Forest

Climbing Through the Beech Forest

As you climb, you’ll cross a number of streams, moss covered felled trees, native New Zealand ferns and roots which have grown over the trail.

Looking Out Through the Forest

Looking Out Through the Forest

I tackled Mount Alfred with these Keen Targhee Mid II hiking boots. They were excellent for the hike with a 4mm sole that provided a solid bit of traction over the slippery roots, rocks and leaf covered trail. While a more rigid boot might have been beneficial, I enjoyed the flexibility that these boots provided. Solid enough to provide some ankle support going up; yet flexible enough to do a bit of a trail running coming down.

Keen Targhee Mid II

Keen Targhee Mid II

About two hours into the climb, you eventually reach the bush line where the beech forest ends and the tussock begins.

Here, the climb really gets interesting.

End of the Forest

End of the Forest

While the trail isn’t marked from this point on, there are a couple obvious routes that will take you the the plateaued summit. Vere slightly left and an easy scramble will take about 30 minutes to find the top.

Don’t forget to look back and take in the views…

View of Lake Wakatipu

View of Lake Wakatipu

The final scramble to the top is an absolute rush; especially with the cold wind whipping off the valley – it’s a fantastic feeling to finally pull yourself up onto the summit. The 360 degree views are quite simply stunning.

Summit

Summit

While there was a bitterly cold gale at the summit, the Icebreaker mid layer (made from New Zealand wool) provided a great insulation from the bone-chilling cold.

After popping up to the plateaued summit, you can spend time wandering around and taking the views of Lake Wakatipu, the Dart & Rees Valleys, the Humbolts (if the weather is clear!) and majestic Mt Earnslaw.

Dart Valley

Dart Valley

Be aware the weather patterns can change very quickly in the alpine environment. Looking towards Lake Wakatipu, it was essentially clear blue skies; towards Fiordland, a storm was brewing.

Brewing Storm

Brewing Storm

Looking back on Lake Wakatipu.

Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu

So when you’re backpacking in Queenstown, don’t make the mistake that many do: check out the bars, yes – jump off a bridge, you bet - just make sure you get out and get into the great outdoors.

Have you been to Queenstown? Add your favorite nearby hikes in the comments section below.

Considering hiking Mount Alfred? Feel free to contact me with questions.

The Natureshop provided me with complimentary gear for this hike but the opinions here are entirely my own; for ‘nature’ inspired products that are friendly to your body and the environment, check out Natureshop.co.nz.

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Friday Travel Photo: Approaching Storm on New Zealands South Island

16 June 2011

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Friday Travel Photo: Approaching Storm on New Zealands South Island

Today’s Friday Travel Photo was submitted by Amanda (@DangerousBiz) of A Dangerous Business.

I know of few people that share the same level of appreciation I have for Aotearoa – yet Amanda is one of them. I was lucky enough to meet her last month while she was backpacking in New Zealand as a guest of Blog4NZ (a campaign to tell the world that New Zealand is in fact open for business despite the recent earthquakes in Christchurch). It was fantastic to meet a fellow American, travel blogger and lover of New Zealand as she was reunited with the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Follow her journey and get more New Zealand backpacking advice on her travel blog, Dangerous-Business.com.

New Zealand travel tip — never underestimate the beauty of an impending storm.

NZ is known for its many climates and its ever-changing weather.

I love this country because, one minute you can be wearing your sunglasses, taking photos of beautiful Lake Hawea. The next, you may see a rainbow plunging into the depths of the dark water.

Lake Hawea New Zealand - South Island

Lake Hawea New Zealand - South Island

And then the next you could be caught in an all-out downpour that comes out of nowhere, leaving everything rain-kissed and beautiful.

Do you have a photo(s) and travel tips you’d like featured on Backpackingmatt.com? Email me at matt (at) backpackingmatt (dot) com.

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15 Tips for Your First Experience Backpacking in New Zealand

12 April 2011

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15 Tips for Your First Experience Backpacking in New Zealand

The Land of the Long White Cloud is a destination well worn onto the backpacker trail. And for all the right reasons. An epic combination of stunning scenery, adventure sports, and friendly locals combine to make one hell of a place to travel to.

Not only is New Zealand beautiful, New Zealand is easy to travel around. In fact, New Zealand is arguably one of the most backpacker or independent budget traveler friendly countries in the world.

You’ll be hard pressed to find a better spot to break into the world of long term travel.

West Coast, New Zealand

West Coast, New Zealand

New Zealand is addictive. Trust me. I originally came for a 12 month working holiday, yet 18 months later, I’m still here.

Be it the quality of life, the miles and miles of untouched, remote and spectacular scenery, or the laid-back no-worries outlook on life, something about New Zealand will grab you and not let you leave.

So you’re considering a trip backpacking in New Zealand? Sweet as (as they say). While New Zealand is welcoming and easy to get around, you might have some questions about your trip here.

Consider these,

15 Tips for Your First Experience Backpacking in New Zealand

1 ) Travel North to South

Almost daily I get emails from backpackers planning their trip to New Zealand. One of the most common questions I get is:

Should I start on the North Island or the South Island?

While the North Island is stunning (be sure to check out the Bay of Islands and definitely don’t miss the chilled out Coromandel Region), the South Island is where it’s at. As it will be the highlight of your trip, it’s the logical place to finish.

Southern Alps, South Island

Southern Alps, South Island

The mountains are taller, the drives are more spectacular, the Great Walks are greater, and the beer is better so finish on New Zealand’s South Island.

2 ) Avoid the Chain Hostels

There is no shortage of budget accommodation throughout New Zealand. From hostels, to budget motels to holiday parks with self contained accommodation, you won’t have a problem finding a place to lay your head at night.

As New Zealand is frequented by thousands of young backpackers each year, the big chain hostels are present throughout the North and South Islands. Many of the major backpacking destinations have Nomads or Base Backpacker cattle yards.

While many of these are adequate – and some quite flash (I’m talking about you Nomads Queenstown)there are heaps of character filled, independently owned hostels that will compliment your trip to this small island nation.

New Zealand Sunset

New Zealand Sunset

Check out the BBH backpackers (Budget Backpacker Hostels) and get to know their quirky owners, settle down with a glass of New Zealand wine next to their wood burners, or listen to the sea from their gardens.

For $50 you can get a BBH card and save $3/night at hostels throughout New Zealand.

3 ) Arriving to New Zealand

Chances are your flight to New Zealand will arrive in Auckland – this characterless city of the North Island will (unfortunately) be your welcome to Aotearoa.

Auckland

Auckland

The Airbus Express will be your best choice for the quick, 45 minute trip to the Auckland CBD. Tickets are only $23 round trip and can be booked online so you’re set to go when you land.

Consider these Auckland budget travel tips for your first couple days in the city – and most importantly, don’t stay too long – there is too much to see outside of NZ’s largest city.

4 ) Consider Buying a Campervan

New Zealand absolutely begs to be explored behind the steering wheel of your very own campervan.

View of the Tasman

View of the Tasman

You won’t realize how many of these converted, backpacker-filled vans flock New Zealand’s roads until you’re here yourself. If falling asleep to the sound of the surf and waking to the sunrise sounds appealing to you, then a campervan just might be the right mode of transportation for trip.

Traveling New Zealand by campervan gives you loads of flexibility, allows you to get off the beaten path, and you will ultimately save you heaps on accommodation costs.

Many backpackers in New Zealand buy a van when they arrive and sell it prior to their departure. Surprisingly, buying a campervan in New Zealand is a simple and straightforward process; however, do be aware that a certain amount of risk is involved and not all of the campvervans in New Zealand are good investment.

If you don’t do your research properly, your van could explode just outside of Queenstown after doing a solid 430,000+ kilometers.

5 ) If Not, Hire a Campervan

Assuming you’re not comfortable taking on the risk of buying a campevan, at the very least hire one for the duration of your stay.

The Remarkables, Queenstown

The Remarkables, Queenstown

Freedom camping is possible in many areas around New Zealand and you can save a significant amount on accommodation when you consider a shared dorm is often $30 per night.

In areas where freedom camping is not allowing, the Department of Conservation runs basic campsites that are as little as $5/night.

6 ) Get a 2Degrees Sim Card

If you’re traveling with an unlocked mobile, you’ll be able to pick up a sim card when you get into New Zealand. While there are a couple different providers to choose from, your best bet is undoubtedly 2Degrees.

They offer cheap, international calls back home to Mom & Dad as well as cheap calls throughout New Zealand – for $19 you can get 30 minutes of talk time, 2000 texts, and for you iPhone users – 50MB of data.

7 ) 3…2…1 Bungy! Do it.

Taupo Bungy

Taupo Bungy

New Zealand is an adrenaline junkies’ paradise. If you can dream it, chances are you can do it in New Zealand.

You can jump off bridges or out of planes. You can roll down hills in giant, water filled balls. You can run off cliffs with parachutes strapped to your back. You can cruise down rivers narrowly missing canyon walls in a jet boat. Or you can go black water rafting deep below the earth’s surface. Really, you can do it all.

Whatever you do, make sure you do a bungy jump

AJ Hackett established the world’s first permanent, commercial bungy jumping operation in Queenstown in 1982. Today, there are three in Queenstown alone for you to choose from (K Bridge, Nevis Highwire Bungy, & The Ledge Bungy).

It’s a terrifying experience – arguably, one of the most difficult things you’ll ever have to do, yet it’s an absolute rush and a must for your trip to New Zealand.

8 ) Don’t Try to Fit Too Much In

Planning a trip to New Zealand isn’t an easy process. In fact, it’s bloody difficult. Why?

There is such a wide variety of things to do, landscapes to see, and experiences to be had, that you’ll not know how you can fit it all in.

To be honest, you probably can’t. Unless you’re committing two or three months to New Zealand, it’s impossible to see it all in one go. The biggest mistake you can make when coming to New Zealand is attempting to do too much in too little time.

Lake Wakatipu

Lake Wakatipu

You’ll enjoy your experience backpacking in New Zealand heaps more if you have time to relax and spend a little longer in those untouched little corners of New Zealand you’ll inevitably find.

9 ) Experience a Great Walk

A road trip around New Zealand will reveal a country considerably untouched by the human hand. Sure, tourism is big business in many of New Zealand’s destinations, yet a huge part of the country is as remote and untouched as it is stunning.

Almost 30% of land in New Zealand is publicly owned and much of this has been converted to National Parks.

View on the Routeburn Track

View on the Routeburn Track

There are a series of multi-day Great Walks throughout New Zealand and you should experience at least part of one on your trip here. Check out the Routeburn Track near Queenstown, the Abel Tasman Coastal Track near Nelson, or one of the other seven Great Walks.

10 ) Try WWOOFing

If you’ll be staying in New Zealand for more than a couple weeks, you might want to consider WWOOFING (Willing Workers On Organic Farms) for part of your trip.

Wwoofing is a host system where you can exchange a couple hours of work each day on an organic farm in return for free food and accommodation.

It’s a fantastic way to save some money, meet interesting local Kiwis, and get a feel for a different aspect of life in New Zealand. The majority of people swing through New Zealand, see the sites, jump off bridges and miss the small and out of the way places that make New Zealand so unique.

These Wwoofing experiences and tips are a great place to start if you’re considering this for part of your stay.

11 ) Walk on a Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier

While most of these tips aren’t experience focused, walking on a glacier is one that undoubtedly deserves to make it on the list. New Zealand is filled with wonders, and you’ll find two on the West Coast of the South Island – the Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers.

These ancient pieces of ice start in the Southern Alps and stretch all the way to coastal, temperate rainforest only miles away from the sea at 300 metres above sea level.

Walking on one is an iconic New Zealand experience and one that you should have while you’re here.

The West Coast itself is a unique and fascinating area of New Zealand, so be sure to spend at least a couple days exploring the rugged coastline from Karamea all the way to Haast.

12 ) Hitchhiking in New Zealand

If you decide to buy a campervan, rent a vehicle, or get around by bus, you’ll be shocked at the number of hitchikers you see in New Zealand. It’s quite common and a very budget-friendly way to see New Zealand.

Clearly, care should be taken – you shouldn’t hitchhike at night and you’re probably better off with a mate (might as well minimize your risk), yet it’s a bloody exciting way to see the country.

Lindis Pass

Lindis Pass

New Zealanders are a friendly lot and you’re bound to have some interesting chats once you do get picked up.

If you decided to give it a go (and you should), you’re best off on the outskirts of a town, and make sure there is room for the driver to pull over; if there isn’t, you won’t get picked up – it’s as simple as that. A smile never hurts and a sign saying where you want to go will probably speed up your chances of getting a lift.

13 ) Beware of New Zealand Internet

As any travel blogger, Facebook addict, or general internet using backpacker that has come to New Zealand knows, the state of the internet here is dreadful.

It’s often slow, more often expensive, always charged by data usage (Skyping is difficult), and almost never included with your stay in a hostel.

Slowly, more and more cafes are offering free internet yet without a doubt New Zealand is far behind the rest of the world. Your best bet for finding free WiFi is at the local library with the other backpackers who have figured the system out.

14 ) Go Mountain Biking

Mountain biking in New Zealand is unsurpassed by few places in the world and Kiwis love their bikes about as much as they love “The Rugby.”

Mountain biking New Zealand

Mountain biking New Zealand

Wherever you are, you’re bound to find some single track trails (just ask at the bike shop in town, there is bound to be one), yet Rotorua on the North Island is arguably the mountain biking capital of New Zealand.

Hire a bike and spend the day exploring the miles (and miles) of single track trails in the Whakarewarewa Forest – chances are, you’ll want to go back for day two.

In a country where budget activities are few and far between, mountain biking is a fantastic way to spend a day and see the countryside (plus, you’ll burn off the calories from all those budget-saving meat pies you’ve been eating).

15 ) Get Off the Beaten Path

In a country the size of the state of Colorado, you have less than 4 million people, 40 million sheep and every possible landscape you could imagine.

Lake Hawea

Lake Hawea

There is so much to be seen that no guidebook (or blog post) will ever point you in all the right directions. Use this to your advantage, and seek out your own untouched areas of Aotearoa.

A highlight of your trip to the Land of the Long White Cloud should be getting off the beaten path and finding your own special corner of this idyllic part of the world.

So take it slow, make some wrong turns, start conversations with the locals, and get to know New Zealand for what it is – one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Have you been backpacking in New Zealand? Leave your tips in the comments section below.

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Friday Travel Photo: Sunset in St Kilda

7 April 2011

7 Comments

Friday Travel Photo: Sunset in St Kilda

Today’s Friday Travel Photo was submitted by fellow expat and traveler seeing the world through working holidays, Christine of C’estChristine.com. If you’d like your photo featured in this not-quite-weekly feature, please contact me.

Melbourne has gotten used to Sydney stealing its thunder.

While Melbourne was once the largest and most prominent city in Australia, Sydney has been slowly but steadily chipping away at its cultural prowess and international importance.

But while Sydney has the breezy harbour and flash fashion scene, Melbourne has beach sunsets–and that’s enough for me.

Sunset in St Kilda Australia

Sure, it’s a bay, and sure, it’s technically in the suburb of St Kilda. But with daily sunsets like this, Melbourne has a special place in my heart. It’s still the cultural center of Australia, but forget the museums and alley cafes–don’t miss a St Kilda sunset when you’re in Melbourne.

Christine is working her way through the beaches of Australia after living on the French Riviera and exploring Europe. When she’s not writing or taking photos, she’s bartending or curled up with a book in the sunshine. Read more at C’est Christine and follow her adventures at @camorose.

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