7 Must-Do Experiences for an Alternative Visit to Athens

This is a guest post by Rebecca Hall.

I have suffered from wanderlust ever since a teenager and at the tender age of 19, took myself off to Australia for a year. Various job roles in my 20s at LHR airport enabled me to satisfy my wanderlust, but it’s only in my 30s that I’ve started to look closer to home (the UK) and discover Europe.

I’m settled (for now), in the beautiful country of Greece.

Athens, as of late, thanks to the atrocious international reportage, conjures up images of rioting pensioners alongside hooded youths, baton wielding fascist policemen and you can almost smell the teargas and hear the cries of the people with raised fists. Yes, riots do occur – the Greeks are, luckily, not a nation to take things lightly and moan about things, yet do nothing about them.

However there is more to this capital city than what is portrayed of late.

Picture, if you will: old Greek men, sitting outside various ‘cafénios’ in their neighbourhood discussing politics, twiddling their worry beads and looking at the young piece of ass that’s walking by (strangely, it’s never disgusting and never feels threatening). Hear the cries of the weekly neighbourhood farmer’s street market (bound to be one near your hostel) and be greeted in Greek by the stall holders – “Kali mera!” Smell the freshly ground Greek coffee from the cafés and know that you can comfortably sit there, nursing just one coffee for hours and not be asked to purchase another one or move on.

Eat Gyros, the incredibly healthy Greek fast food – chicken or pork and chips (fried in olive oil) wrapped in a pitta with salad and tzatziki (that yogurt, cucumber and garlic dip). If you’re incredibly lucky, you might even be spat on by an old Greek lady. Yes, this happened to me in my first week in Greece – I picked up an old lady’s shopping she had dropped on the floor. She thanked me, looked at me then promptly spat at me three times (well, on the floor in front of me to be fair). It’s a compliment to any woman – it means you are considered a beautiful person and they are warding away the ‘Evil Eye’ – lest someone become jealous of you and place a curse on you.

Sit outside in the summer and watch a movie with the backdrop of the Acropolis – this turns an average cinema trip into something of an experience.

And so, with an obvious passion for “all things Greek,” here are seven tips for your experience traveling in Athens.

1) Alternative tour around Athens

Don’t just come to Athens, see the Acropolis, changing of the guard then head to an island. Why not take yourself off to Exarchia, traditionally known as the ‘anarchist’ area of Athens. Full of great graffiti and very trendy bars and cafés, Exarchia is THE place to be.

Nearest metro: Omonia (red or green line) – about a 10 minute walk down the side alleys.

2) Athens Flea Market

Every Sunday in Monestiraki, the outdoor flea market opens up. Wander around and browse at the weird paraphernalia: anything from army gear, old dial telephones to coins, books and vintage clothing.

Nearest metro: Monesteraki (green line).

3) Head to Piraeus port, take the next ferry out of there

Don’t plan it – do as I do…rock up, take the next ferry and see where you end up. I have ended up on: Poros, Naxos, Paros and Aegina. Poros and Aegina are nearer to Athens and are served by high speed catamarans, therefore more expensive. But it is possible to get a ‘slow boat’ there.

Naxos & Paros are about 5 hours away by normal ferry. At both beautiful islands, guesthouse owners meet you off the ferry and bargain away. In the high season of August in Naxos I managed to bag a room for 30 Euros a night. Between two of us (15E each), that’s pretty good.

4) Visit The Art Foundation .. and have a beer

Located behind a small wooden door down another side street in Monestiraki, The Art Foundation bar is situated in the garden of an old, run down art deco building. Open till very late, it’s popular with the arty crowds. Enjoy a drink whilst browsing the strange exhibits in the upstairs rooms.

Nearest metro: Monesteraki (green line).

5) Epidaurus Ancient Theatre

Located in the Peloponnese, approximately 2 hours by coach from Athens, Epidaurus stages theatrical performances every year in the summer in an ancient amphitheatre. In July 2011 I was lucky enough to watch Kevin Spacey perform in “Richard III” as part of the Athens Festival – for 20E! The acoustics are spectacular so regardless of where you sit, you can hear every word uttered.

Take a coach from Athens – on performance days’ special coaches run for only 20 Euros. And if going on a performance day, please take a cushion!

6) Watch a movie in the summer, outdoors

Athenians are avid cinema goers. In the summer, the outdoor cinemas throw open their doors (or roofs) and a whole new experience in cinema begins. My favourite is Cine Paris – located near the Acropolis. You can have your own view of the Parthenon whilst you watch the latest movie – or sometimes even an old black and white Hepburn flick.

Nearest metro: Acropolis (Red line)

7) And one further afield – the Monasteries of Meteora

A World Heritage site (and used many years ago in the filming of a Sean Connery “James Bond” movie), Meteora is located in Central Greece. Translating as “suspended in the air” or “in the heavens above,” here you will find the 6 monasteries built from the 14th Century onwards atop the high rock formations.

Nearest station: Kalampaka – take the train from Larissa Station in Athens, approximately 4 hours journey time.

Yes, Greece is suffering big time at the moment – but she has so much to offer a person, so long as you are willing to open yourself up to her strange customs and are willing to integrate. Don’t just come here and be a backpacker – really try to get into the community and appreciate all this country has to offer. Don’t always believe all you hear on the news.

Have you traveled to Athens? Leave any tips in the comments section below.

About the Author: I’m a 30 something English Language teacher, currently in Greece. I’ve travelled to, lived and taught in Sri Lanka, Egypt and even helped Eastern European crew with their English whilst on a Container ship travelling across the Atlantic. All experiences have helped shape who I am today. Follow my journey and send me your Athens questions via my blog Leavingcairo.Blogspot.com.

Technorati Tags: Alternative Experiences in Athens, Athens Travel Tips, Backpacking in Athens

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Pizza in Naples: The Heavyweight Round

This is a guest post by Sarah Gonski – contact me if you’re interested in writing for Backpackingmatt.com.

Pizza is to Naples what the cheese steak is to Philadelphia:

Homegrown and perfect; the pride and joy of the culinary scene.

When I was on a short backpacking jaunt through Italy a few weeks ago, I arrived in Naples with one goal in mind: eat pizza.

Scratch that, I had two goals in mind, and the second was: don’t get killed by the Mafia, knocked over by screaming Vespas or get my wallet stolen before I finish eating said pizza.

That might be more than two goals, but forgive me, I wasn’t a math major. The first goal was easy to achieve. I’m not going to sugarcoat it, the others were tougher.

Before I arrived in Naples, I’d done my homework: the most-mentioned pizza joint in the city is the famed L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, which has been a family business for 141 years now and counting. A longtime local favorite, recently it’s gotten a lot of attention from the international crowd as the site of Elizabeth Gilbert’s (and Julia Robert’s) famed pizza-gasm in Eat, Pray, Love.

The contender for second place is L’Antica Pizzeria e Friggitoria di Matteo, otherwise known as Di Matteo, just a ten-minute walk through the crowded Naples historic district. In business since 1936, it’s hardly a newbie on the scene, and has some dedicated fans of its own.

The mission was clear — consume Da Michele’s pizza. Consume Di Matteo’s pizza. Compare. Contrast. Repeat as necessary.

We went to Pizzeria da Michele on a cold windy night, and spent about 30 minutes waiting in the line that was forming outside. Nearly everyone in the line was Italian – the first good sign.

If the locals are lining up in a town where you can buy pizza about every ten yards, then this was the place I wanted to be.

The place is fairly small, and no frills. The seating is family-style, so there are no private tables, which somehow feels right in extroverted Italy. The menus are single-page printouts hung in 8×10 frames on the walls next to each table. It’s clean and simple because there are only two offerings: Pizza Margherita (sauce, mozzarella and basil) or Pizza Marinara (no cheese).

It was perfect. The crust was chewy on the outside, rolled thin in the middle to let the sauce take center stage. The sauce was delicate and seasoned with a light touch, much thinner and lighter in color than pizza sauces usually are, and it tasted like fresh tomatoes. The cheese was slightly smoky and perfectly melted.

The whole effect was divine.

Hard to top, but we tried anyway. The next stop was Di Matteo for lunch the next day. Again there was a line outside, with only Italian being spoken – good news.

The interior is small, but has an upstairs that the waiters send food to using an old-fashioned pulley system, which undeniably adds both charm and excitement (What if the rope breaks? Can I buy the pizza that falls off at a discount?).

The pizza came in good time, and boy was it good. The crust was thinner and slightly crispier than Da Michele’s, the sauce more robust, with a more intense flavor. The cheese was slightly firmer than the gooey Da Michele version, and the pizza had slightly less of the smoky flavor from the brick ovens.

The case to be made for each:

Da Michele: I like the whole limited-menu thing. It takes cojones to know that your food item is so good that no one needs to even think about ordering something else. The pizza was outrageously delicious. Waiting in line isn’t ideal though, and it seemed that there was always a line.

Di Matteo: More menu options, including a deep fried pizza that’s totally worth the heart attack. They also have private tables, so you don’t have to sit with strangers, which could be a plus or a minus depending on your tastes.

The verdict: I am a Da Michele girl. The best pizza I’ve ever tasted in my life, hands down. It was so good I went back the next day for more.

The second verdict: You can’t go wrong at Di Matteo’s, either.

About the Author: Sarah Gonski writes at Love & Paella about falling in love with the world in general and the south of Spain in particular. She enjoys 80s music, her beloved camera La Rebel, and conjugating Spanish verbs with The Mister. Her cherry chapstick has accompanied her to 24 countries and counting (don’t worry, it wasn’t the same tube).

Technorati Tags: Backpacking, Budget Travel Europe, italy, Naples, Pizza

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Gran Canaria 360º: Driving Europe’s Miniature Continent

This is a guest post by Cat Gaa – contact me if you’re interested in writing for Backpackingmatt.com.

I did a mental check of the last-minute details for the last-minute Spanish wedding: hotel room reserved, dress dry cleaned, flights to Gran Canaria booked. Everything was taken care of until my boyfriend quipped: “No, no, no. The gua-gua won’t do. Not on this continent.”

We found ourselves in the airport of Las Palmas on the mini-continent, capital of the Canary Islands, at the rental car desks. The place was a jumble of English, Spanish and canario, a dialect halfway in between Argentinian and Castillian. He switched to English.

“I forgot to make a reservation. And this island is too beautiful not to see it all.”

Kike hasn’t made a car reservation. When I suggested the gua-gua, the Canarian term for tourist bus, he insisted it was no way to see a landscape and climate so varied that it had garnered the name of a miniature continent.

He turned to the attendant. “Find us a car.”

For once, his stubbornness didn’t bother me – we saw every corner of the continent in three days – something that might have not been possible without his insistence that we have one.

Thanks to its near-perfect circle shape, Gran Canaria is easy to drive. A drive down the highway connecting Las Palmas to Maspalomas will average one hour, and the central mountains are accessible by smaller roads.

Through the drives, a jaw-dropping array of landscapes, flora and tradition abounds.

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and Arucas

Save the beach and its principal festivals, Carnaval in February and San Juan in June, Las Palmas is little more than home to nearly half of the island’s population, making it dirty and pricey. A 37 kilometer’s drive from the island’s only airport, find yourself in the plantation town of Arucas, known for its banana production and rum, as well as century-old stone cathedral.

The island touts its banana canaria, the banana’s smaller and sweeter cousin native to the island. Old plantations dot the hilly countryside, and the beloved honey rum, Arehucas, is distilled in the nearby factory.

From Las Palmas Airport, catch the GC-1 highway heading towards the capital and veer off at GC-3 towards Arucas.

Agaete and Puerto de las Nieves

Famous for its rocky beaches and natural landmarks, the municipality of Agaete is located in the eastern part of the island and prides itself on the variety of landscapes within the region. The most attractive are perhaps the stony beaches of the Port of Las Nieves, where rustic seafood and quaint blue and white homes seem to transport you to the Greek Isles.

Fred Olsen runs cruises from this port to the island of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and in this small bay once stood el Dedo de Dios. Translated as God’s finger, this ancient stone formation resembling and appendage stood at this spot for centuries before being toppled by Tropical Storm Delta. Fish soup, caldo de pescado, is present on every menu in this port village.

To get a view of the windy coastline, leave Arucas by taking the GC-20 highway north. The motorway will turn into GC-2 at Hoya Alta. Follow it west, passing Santa María de Guía de Gran Canaria with its beautiful church and queso de flor cheese. Agaete lies on the same highway, 26 kilometers from Arucas.

Tejede and Roque Nublo

Roque Nublo, the towering monolith in the geographic center of the island, stands as the continent’s greatest climate controller and one of the main climate zones on the island. While the north tends to be rainier and cooler than the south, the rock is believed by islanders to split the clouds in two, thus deterring them to other islands.

Regardless, the sparse mountain vegetation and dramatic cliffs are great for hiking and, on a clear day, one can see the southern coast slope into the sea and across to the largest island of the Canaries: Tenerife, with its commanding volcano, Mount Teide.

Heading inland from Agaete, it’s best to backtrack to Arucas on the GC-2 and take the GC- 43 towards Teror. The roads here get steep and winding (I even got sick), so be sure to hydrate well. Following signs to Tejada, you’ll catch both the GC-21 and GC-15. If you’re more adventurous, the bumpy GC-220 will get you there in an hour.

Puerto de Mogán

Known as the Venice of Canarias, Mogán makes everything look good. From Telde, catch the GC-605, passing the town of Mogán and its incredibly steep ravines to the coastal village.

Canals criss-cross the small port known for its fishing heritage and its food doesn’t disappoint. From fresh seafood a la plancha to traditional papas arrugá (baked jacket potatoes) and mojo picón (Spain’s closest thing to salsa), everything seemed more beautiful that afternoon. From breathtaking sunsets to pristine beaches, Puerto de Mogán merits at least a half-day.

To get to Mogán and its port from Tejeda, hop on the GC-605, which becomes GC-200 at Mogán (47 km).

Maspalomas

Maspalomas has the best climate in the entire archipelago, averaging 25ºC year-round, making it the mecca of tourism on the island. From gay bars to sand bars, it echoes Málaga in its well- kept beaches and all-inclusive hotels. In fact, the main beach is called Playa de los Ingleses, paying homage to the cold-blooded northern Europeans who chose the island as their winter vacation spot.

The biggest attraction is the 17km stretch of coastline, which create a dune of some 400 hectares and provides refuge to thousands of migratory birds, as well as attractive water sports and world-class golf courses.

From Mogán, you can catch the GC-1 highway for a quick way (30 km) to the resort town of Maspalomas, or take the scenic route GC-500, which runs along the coast. If taking the coastal road, be sure to stop by Playa Amadores, a breathtaking cove with a white-sand beach imported from the Carribean. From Maspalomas, the airport is barely a half hour’s drive.

For those who can’t go by car, there’s always the gua-gua. Waah, waah.

About the Author: Cat left Chicago’s skyscrapers for the empty blue sky and olive groves of Andalucia after graduating from the University of Iowa. A fan of cheap beer and olives, she’s thinking of staying in southern Spain long-term. Follow Cat’s journey on her blog, Sunshine and Siestas.

This post was sponsored by FlyThomasCook.com.

Technorati Tags: Backpacking, Europe, spain, Travel Advice

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Friday Travel Photo: Sunny Praia de Belixe, Portugal

Today’s Friday Travel Photo helps you escape the cold of winter and takes you to sunny Praia de Belixe, Portugal. It was submitted by Stephen Burgo of the GoMad Nomad Travel Mag.

January is the ideal time for a backpacker to visit Southern Portugal; the temperatures aren’t quite as extreme, the tourists are few and far between, and accommodation prices are cheap.

Of Sunny Praia de Belixe, Portugal, Stephen says this …

If you travel to the futhest reaches of southwestern Portugal (and the whole of the European contenent) you’ll find the small town of Sagres. It has four supurb beaches, including this one, Praia de Belixe, surrounding the town. In Sagres you’ll find young surfers living out of Volkswagon vans and plenty of other Europeans that have moved to the area for the outstanding weather, beautiful cliffs, and the real estate bargain of western Europe.

For the best of the beaches, check out:

• The sheltered, south-facing Praia da Mareta for bathing
• The Praia do Martinhal for windsurfing
• The wild Praia do Tonel for surfing
• The Praia de Belixe for a stunning setting under cliffs.

The town of Sagras itself is nothing special, but pleasant enough complete with the necessities to keep the family, surfer, or backpacker content.

Be sure to check out Stephan’s travel mag – GoMad Nomad Travel Mag and his personal blog the Bohemian Traveler.

Do you have a photo you’d like featured here? Email me at matt [at] backpackingmatt [dot] com.

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Friday Travel Photo: Italian Alleyway at Dusk

Today’s Friday Travel Photo takes you to Bary, Italy – an unsuspecting port town on Italy’s east coast.

Fate would result in me spending a night here after traveling some 16 hours via train, bus, and ferry from Sicily. My goal was to catch a ferry to Athens – I unfortunately missed the ferry and ended up spending a night here.

I spent the evening wandering the cobblestone streets and taking in the feel of the place. It’s an excellent example of how unplanned changes to your travels may result in you finding your new favorite destination.

Do you have a photo you’d like featured here? Send it to matt (at) backpackingmatt (dot) com and I’ll gladly feature it with a link back to your blog.

Technorati Tags: Europe, Friday Travel Photo, italy

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Friday Travel Photo: Piss – Prague, Czech Republic

Today’s Friday Travel Photo takes you to the Czech Republic’s capital city of Prague.

Prague is the geographical center of Europe and one of continent’s most beautiful cities.  Praha is filled with friendly people, world-renowned Czech Pilsner beer, and a stunning range of architecture – Renaissance, Gothic, cubist and neoclassical all sit side-by-side. Did I mention the world-famous Czech beer?

This statue is found outside of the Kafka Museum in the Mala Strana neighborhood of Prague.  It’s called Piss and was designed and created by Czech sculptor David Cerny. Two sculptures stand in an enclosure filled with water. These moving sculptures pee streams of water that write quotes from famous Prague residents. A sign next to the statue gives you a number that you can text messages to. After sending the text, the statues stop and ‘write’ your message.

Some unique artwork to say the least.

Prague is quickly becoming one of Europe’s most popular cities and swells with tourists during the hot summer months. Don’t miss Prague’s famous Charles Bridge – but take a stroll across it at night to avoid the crowds.

Have you been to Prague? Share your experiences in the comments section below.

Do you have a photo and brief write-up you’d like featured here? Email it to matt [at] backpackingmatt [dot] com

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Friday Travel Photo: View From the Edinburgh Castle

Today’s Friday Travel Photo takes you to one of the most stunning cities in Europe: Edinburgh, Scotland.

A city filled with cozy pubs, great museums, an excellent nightlife scene, and some spectacular architecture. Edinburgh is a city you can visit for a week, and somehow find yourself there months later.

This photo was taken from the Edinburgh Castle. Wherever you are in Edinburgh, you stand a pretty good chance of catching a view of this imposing fortress perched on top of the volcanic Castle Rock. The castle in some form or another has dominated the Edinburgh skyline since the 12th century.

The Castle is arguably more impressive from the outside than from in. Consider saving yourself the £15 it costs to tour the castle, and instead simply take in the structure from spots around Edinburgh.

If you’re backpacking through Edinburgh on a budget, consider reading these posts as well:

• A Local’s Perspective: Edinburgh, Scotland – This will give you some ideas on how to spend a day in Edinburgh.
• Day Tripping from Edinburgh – Looking to get out of Edinburgh on a day trip? Consider heading to Loch Ness.
• Three Edinburgh Pubs You Can’t Miss – You can’t come to Edinburgh and not sample some of Scotland’s national drink. Check out these three pubs during your trip to Edinburgh.

Are you interested in having your photo featured here? Email the photo and details to matt [at] backpackingmatt [dot] com

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Puffin Watching: Isle of Staffa, Scotland

A trip to Scotland’s West Coast should include a visit to the beautiful Isle of Mull – a peaceful island home to the Tobermory Distillery. Tobermory itself is a quaint little village situated on a fishing harbor that is lined with brightly colored buildings.

It’s a terrific village where you could very easily waste away a week or more.

While you’re visiting the Isle of Mull, one thing you have to fit into your budget is a day trip to the Isle of Staffa. The Isle of Staffa is a small rocky island off the west coast of Mull that is home to a fascinating and comical seabird – the Puffin. These small little birds are often called sea parrots because of their vivid colors.

To get to the Isle of Staffa, you’ll have to take a ferry and guided tour from the Ulva Ferry Terminal which is a scenic one our drive from Tobermory. Along the way, you’ll pass famed highland cattle and many single track roads.

There are thousands of puffins found throughout Britain yet they are often very difficult to spot. Puffins spend much of their time off shore and only come ashore to breed in early April. From April until late July is the best time to spot the puffins while they’re feeding and taking care of their young.

Puffins are not known for being the most graceful fliers. With the help of their short wings and fat bodies, they really seem to struggle when flying around. I’m no bird-watcher, yet I found it absolutely fascinating to watch the little birds flap around the island. You would never expect the wee things to be able to migrate thousands of miles each year.

After we arrived at Staffa and were ferried to shore on a small dingy, we clammored up to the cliff tops where the baby puffins nested. They choose to nest at the tops of steep cliffs of inaccessible islands – it’s because of this that puffins are often times so difficult to view. The Puffin will lay a lone egg and hatch one chick each year in a burrow dug into the ground and return to the same hole year after year. We were asked to not get to close to these burrows to respect the young, yet you could hear their high pitch squeaking as they were waiting for their mother to bring them their food.

They are fed a diet of sand eels by their parents for about six weeks. After this time, they are abandoned by their parents. Sooner or later, nature results in the baby puffins leaving their burrow out of desperate hunger in the cover or darkness where they will attempt at flying to find their own food. Needless to say, they don’t have ample time to learn how to fly or survive on their own.

What I found most shocking about the puffins was their tameness. They would fly to within three or four feet of where we were viewing their behavior. It was strangely therapeutic to sit in the warm sun (rare for Scotland!), feeling the breeze of the sea, and watching the fascinating and colorful little animals.

The tour was operated by Turus Mara and they provided an excellent experience overall. Our captain provided heaps of information about the area’s history, puffins in general, and did a terrific job to make everyone feel comfortable and welcome. While we didn’t see any other marine wildlife, there were chances of seeing Bottlenose dolphins, whales, and seals. A tour to the Isle of Staffa lasts four hours and will cost you £25.

Technorati Tags: Puffins, Scotland, Travel Advice

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Friday Travel Photo: Reykjavik, Iceland

Today’s Friday Travel Photo takes you to Iceland’s capital city of Reykjavik. Marcello (@wanderingtradr) from The Wandering Trader shot this photo on the shore walk in Reykjavik on his first day in the country.

For some more great Iceland content, check out Twenty-Something Travel.

Are you interested in having your photo featured here? Email the photo and details to matt [at] backpackingmatt [dot] com

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Friday Travel Photo: Sicily, Italy

Today’s Friday Travel Photo was taken somewhere on the largest island in the Mediterranean – Sicily. Like much of Italy, the Sicilian region has many characteristics that are different than other regions in Italy. In some respects, a visit to Sicily is like a visit to a different country. Either way, it’s a beautiful place that begs to be explored.

Do you have a photo you’d like featured here? I’d love to post it with a link back to your blog. Email me at matt [at] backpackingmatt [dot] com

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